Kissaten Culture: A Sip of Showa-Era Japan

Kissaten—Japan’s beloved old-school coffee shops—take their name from the words “kissa” (to drink tea) and “ten” (shop). Originally tied to tea culture, they have evolved into cozy spots for coffee and nostalgia.

Locals affectionately call them “kissa”, and stepping inside feels like entering a time capsule paused somewhere in the middle of the Showa era. (Japan uses a system of imperial eras, with Showa spanning from 1926 to 1989. For context, 2025 marks the seventh year of the Reiwa era.)

The Showa years were a time of post-war rebuilding, rapid change, and a unique blend of tradition and modernity—think neon-lit alleyways, black-and-white TVs turning color, and the cassette Walkman. 

In 1981, there were around 150,000 kissaten across Japan. Today, fewer than half remain. And yet, something interesting is happening: people are falling in love with them all over again.  

Around Miru Kyoto Nishiki, you’ll find three iconic kissa that embody this quiet revival—Inoda Coffee, Ogawa Coffee, and Maeda Coffee. These longtime institutions serve not only great brews, but also a sense of place and memory. Inside: retro Western cups, velvet booths, soft lighting, and that almost-forgotten feeling of slowing down. 

Inoda Coffee: The Classic Morning Haven  

Just a short walk from Miru Kyoto Nishiki, Inoda Coffee’s Main Shop on Sakaimachi-dori has been a Kyoto institution since 1940. Step into its elegant space—dark wood, soft lighting, and a brick courtyard, you’re in for a treat.  

Famous for its “Arabian Pearl” blend, a deep-roasted mocha recommended with milk and sugar, it’s a nod to old-school hospitality. The “Kyoto Breakfast” is a must—scrambled eggs, ham, and a croissant served alongside your coffee.  

Open from 7 AM, it’s an ideal start before exploring the city. The timeless atmosphere and attentive service—staff dressed formally in bow ties—make every sip feel special until 6 PM.

Ogawa Coffee: A Modern Take on Tradition

If you’re in the mood for something with heritage but a modern design touch, head to Ogawa Coffee’s Sakaimachi Nishiki shop. Opened in 2022, it reimagines a Kyo-machiya townhouse with a fresh twist.  

Since 1952, this roastery has honed its craft, and here it shines with flannel-drip coffee—strong, aromatic, and deeply satisfying. The airy interior, with its tsubo-niwa garden (small, enclosed garden typical for Kyoto townhouses) view, feels both cozy and contemporary.  

Pair your organic brew with their Original Kyoto Wheat White Bread charcoal-grilled toast. It’s a spot that respects its roots while looking forward—perfect for a relaxed break any time between 7 AM and 8 PM.

Maeda Coffee: Retro Comfort

Just a short stroll from Miru Kyoto Nishiki, Maeda Coffee’s Muromachi Main Shop is housed in a renovated kimono store, blending traditional machiya (wooden townhouse) charm with a warm, spacious atmosphere since 1981. 

Known for its house-roasted Special Blend Ryunosuke, the coffee is a comforting classic that keeps locals coming back. The food is equally memorable—especially the Napolitan spaghetti, a kissaten staple with a story of its own.

Despite the name, Napolitan isn’t from Naples—it’s a pasta dish born in post-war Japan. When spaghetti became more widely available but Italian ingredients were scarce, cooks turned to what they had: onions, green peppers, ham, bacon, and ketchup. The result? A uniquely Japanese comfort food that quickly became a kissaten classic.  

Maeda Coffee’s version is a hearty, nostalgic plate stir-fried to order, preserving the traditional taste that’s been loved across generations.

Open from 7 AM to 6 PM, Maeda Coffee is a cozy retreat offering homemade flavors, a touch of Kyoto’s history, and the charm of Japanese café culture.

These kissaten are all near Miru Kyoto Nishiki, making them easy additions to your itinerary—whether it’s breakfast at Inoda, a midday pick-me-up at Ogawa, or a sweet pause or early dinner at Maeda.  

Miru Kyoto Gion guests can easily access these coffee institutions within a 20-35 minutes walk. Each spot offers a glimpse into Kyoto’s love affair with coffee—a legacy that rivals its tea culture.  

With Miru’s central locations, you’re perfectly placed to explore this trio.  

Book your stay at Miru Kyoto Nishiki or Miru Kyoto Gion, and let Inoda, Ogawa, and Maeda add a warm, nostalgic note to your trip.

Make the most of your Kyoto experience by staying at Miru Kyoto Gion or Miru Kyoto Nishiki—two boutique stays blending tradition with modern comfort. Wake up to Kyoto’s quiet charm, steps away from the city’s most enchanting sights.

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